Notes on The History of Menswear

Bram Adams - 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BF-fI28KHIM

 00:09

nail polish was worn by the ruling class, and pink was a derivative of red

 01:09

clothes = protection and status

 01:37

Pharaohs be dressin', upper class people tried to dress to match Pharaoh, lower class tried to match upper class

 02:19

Frock coats most comfortable for horse riding in 1700s France

 02:46

Lower class had yellow tinge to clothes

 02:44

Beau Brummel was the first stylist -- wore clothes that fit him well

 03:32

Menswear became minimal in 1900s to show that they worked in fields like banking, or something respectable and high status

 04:07

young people introduce new style -> wear it till they die, new young people introduce new style cycle

 04:44
  • King Edward the 8th was a status icon
  • 1930s (great depression) menswear code of conduct for tailored clothing (traditionalist)
 05:07

mass production of clothing in WW2

 05:20

men's fashion industry in ww2 took advertising tips from the auto industry

 05:45
  • the 60s saw rebellion in the youth
  • Michael Fish made first genderbending clothing inspired by 1800s dandy clothes
 06:40

Jean Paul Gotye SS85 show rebelled against standards used all sizes genders etc

 07:23

Paris collections and Tokyo (Yamamoto) collections

 08:20

realistic range of men on the runway, sparking intrigue instead of idealism

 09:25

Gucci FW95 shiny suits, the expressive man with subtle sex appeal

 10:29

helmut lang SS98 minimalism plus a strong statement piece -- brought males distressed denim

 11:41

Raf Simmons SS98 angsty youth collection, graphics on hoodies were new in that era, normal today

 12:34

a floating down the river model show -- flowing towards nothingness of mainstream seasonal clothing

 13:17

rick owens sent models on stage with their penises out

 13:44

celebrate the freak, create the creature

 14:09

Watanabe SS06 heralded the start of streetwear, a collab of designer brands with cheap brands like Diekies

 15:23

Kanye got a ton of young men into men's streetwear fashion

 16:03

virgil abloh SS 2019 we are the world fashion show for inclusion -- full circle to dandy's of the 1800s + streetwear

 16:40

fashion is too expensive and predatory; LV is at the head of the predation on status for men

bramadams.dev is a reader-supported published Zettelkasten. Both free and paid subscriptions are available. If you want to support my work, the best way is by taking out a paid subscription.